Sideless surcoat pattern for medieval wedding dress

The sideless surcoat (or surcote) is a kind of feminine version of the knight's surcoat, the sleeveless tunic which he wore over his armour to stop the sun heating it up. Just like with those, the women's version was often worn in heraldic colours. But unlike the men's version, the women's has the sides cut away in a deep curve, to accentuate the curve of her figure and show the kirtle underneath. (This cutaway was considered risque, and occasionally refered to as 'the gates of hell'.) And the skirts, of course, are very long and full.

You often see the upper part of the sideless surcoat – the cut away bit – edged in ermine.

Here are a couple of options for cutting a sideless surcoat – the second one is probably more period.